Add approximately one to two cups of water per gallon of mud and mix well. This should have the proper consistency for the tape to stick to the drywall. If the mud is too thick or dry, it will be hard to squeeze out from behind the tape, making it difficult to embed correctly. If the mud is too thin, it will squeeze out too easily and may run off the side of the trowel. Remember, you can always add more water to the compound. If you are using a new bucket of mud, try adding 1 or 2 cups of water and mix just the top portion of the bucket. As the mud is used, you can add more water and mix the remaining compound.

Pre-mixed all purpose compound dries naturally and shrinks, drawing the embedded tape closer to the surface. One of the advantages of setting type compounds is that they don’t shrink as they dry. Applying tape with setting compound will hold the tape farther from the drywall surface. We only recommend using setting type compounds for taping when you need to hurry the process.

Look at the seam you are ready to tape, estimate the length of tape needed and pull out that approximate length. Make sure you pull the tape straight out then raise the end before cutting. This will make sure the tape has the proper amount of mud. Cut, place mudded side on the wall and embed on seam. Butt joints are around 4 feet and easy to estimate. Position one end of the tape and embed it with your joint knife then continue to the other end. Position your joint knife where you want the tape to stop and tear off the excess tape. This extra tape could be used or just discarded. Long seams are done with 5’ pieces or the length you can easily handle. The pieces can be butted end to end and don’t need to overlap.

Use a 4” to 6” joint knife to embed the tape. The 4” knife works well for doing most seams but may not control the excess compound well. A 5” or 6” joint knife has more blade width for less mess. The 5” flexible joint knife is a comfortable size to work with and may give overall best results.

Start at the top corner with a length of tape you can easily handle. Tuck the tape into the corner with your drywall joint knife or fingers. Holding the tape in place, start at the top, embed the tape on one side, then the other working your way down. Smooth off well and continue. Estimate the length of tape you need to finish the rest of the corner, pull it out and apply starting at the floor. Cut off any extra tape at the bottom of the top piece by holding your drywall knife in the corner and pull the tape to cut. Smooth the tape and you are done. You can use a flat knife or corner trowel for this process. The finished corner should be sharp so we suggest you embed corners with a flat joint knife. If you prefer to use one length of tape, pull the tape out and fold mudded sides together until you have the proper length needed. Start at the top of the corner and let the tape unfold to the floor.

Plastic outside corners work very well and may be purchased most wherever drywall supplies are sold. Metal corners tend to rust, especially when used in high moisture areas like bathrooms, basements or under wall paper coverings. Plastic corners are stapled or fastened on the corner using setting compounds. They are easy to apply, give you a nice corner for the finished product and will never rust. You can run a piece of drywall tape over the edge of the corner bead for a better buildup and stronger grip but make sure it stays below the surface of your finished wall.

TapeBuddy makes it easy to tape ceiling joints! Position your bench under the seam you are working on, pull out your tape (about 4 to 5 feet), and step onto your bench. Press one end of the tape to the seam and align the other end with the seam. Because the mud is on the tape, it will stick instantly. Embed, smooth and you’re ready for the next piece. Helpful hint: Before you step down, use the excess compound for the first coat on the screws you can reach.